The topics of urbanisation, concrete jungles, and the weakening
of community connections and integration necessary for thriving have
been a major concern of modern times. The city is a desirable place but
also known for its tendency towards corrosive loneliness: somehow as we
pile up in increasingly crowded we also learn to avoid each other and
communal intimacy. Humans are strange creatures.
I have
observed this as Dar es Salaam and I grow up together. It started out
with a tiny and very short CBD which branched out to suburbs where
nobody had fences.
Now it has become a collection of
suburbs where fences are a necessity and walls are preferable. The only
ones without these fierce boundaries live in apartments. But the
apartments have gates.
Happily, our relaxed communal ways combined with the Swahili coastal baraza-veranda-culture have required us to find a workaround all these barriers. Behold: the stone.
Happily, our relaxed communal ways combined with the Swahili coastal baraza-veranda-culture have required us to find a workaround all these barriers. Behold: the stone.
What
I am referring to is the informal community hangout that emerges
organically in every “unoccupied” space in the city where it makes sense
to sit and rest for a minute.
The youth will start out
by staking the amenable patch with cheap materials: maybe a few
pilfered concrete bricks, a broken chair, all set in a semicircle.
Next,
someone will locate a log from a nearby felled tree and drag it there. A
used car tyre will also appear, with fertile dirt placed in the centre.
Do not sit on the car tyre.
As the log and broken chair and circle attract regular
occupants, the car tyre—which has been carefully placed—will sprout a
sapling. Regular occupants will have names, but more usually they have
nicknames corresponding to some characteristics like skin tone,
occupation or habitual behaviour or even ethnicity.
Someone
enterprising will set up shop nearby to offer the necessary: snacks,
beverages. At no point will you ever catch anyone in the act of
maintaining or even furnishing this hangout but it will grow, like the
carefully tended sapling in the car tyre.
Within a year
or two, that sapling will have become a well-groomed and short shade
tree. The entrepreneur selling snacks and drinks will probably be
offering a few plastic chairs and stools.
This hangout
has multiple functions: it is a community centre, a resting spot, an
information centre. Politics and current affairs will be discussed here,
perhaps a news-stand will also appear.
That is how Dar
grows the stones that anchor us in our communality, and also earn us a
reputation for laziness. You will always find people sitting there
during the workday, seemingly doing nothing. They are not. They are
chilling, in-between odd jobs and clients, protecting the neighbourhood
and observing absolutely everything.
We maintain our
green city with shade trees and the odd plant or two. We live on these
logs and watch as the world, and time, goes by.
And no
matter how big this city grows, we will never become too modernised to
forget the simple civility of organically growing our hangout spots.
Elsie Eyakuze is a consultant and blogger for The Mikocheni Report. E-mail: elsieeyakuze@gmail.com
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