Exploring resilient Rwanda through a different lens

Boat rides are a good way of exploring the green islands dotting the lake. PHOTO | SARAH OOKO 

By SARAH OOKO

In Summary

• Lake Kivu among great sights that beckon visitors to country.

With the mention of Rwanda, most people tend to think of the 1994 genocide that is without doubt a sad but major historical event in the East African country.

It is thus common to see many tourists flocking the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre when they land in the country.

This is often a journey into “darkness” and visitors break down in tears as they come face to face with the brutality of a war that killed about 800,000 people in just three months.

The images, skulls, bones and personal belongings of those that lost their lives dot the museum. And one can almost feel the pain and hear the cries of the departed souls.

It is a scene that depicts how hate can turn human beings into monsters, capable of committing heinous acts.

Lessons learned

But the other side of this “coin” is love , which has enabled Rwandans to dust themselves and rise up, in spite of the pain and suffering. They have learnt from history but they are not letting the past determine their destiny.

This way, they are also beckoning outsiders to look at the country from a different lens as there is more to Rwanda than its genocide past. 

This is the approach I took on a recent visit to the country which led to me to discovering the magnificent Lake Kivu, which lies at the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). It is the largest lake in the country and is ranked sixth in Africa. 

A three- hour drive from Kigali takes you to the western side of the country, past a lush green hilly countryside, to locations closer to the water body which drains into Ruzizi River that flows southwards into Lake Tanganyika. 

The lake can be viewed well from either Gesenyi (Rubavu) or Kibuye (Karongi) town. The former is busier and often crowded especially during the weekends. It is ideal for those looking for some “noise” and are keen on partying while on holiday.

Kibuye on the other hand is much calmer, offering a serene environment for unwinding and peaceful co-existence with nature.

What makes it stand out is the magnificent landscape surrounding the lake. Instead of just a plain mass of water, it is dotted with hills covered by an array of flowers and rich green vegetation that appear to be floating on the lake’s surface.

This view is surreal and the beauty is unimaginable. Some of these hills such as Napoleon and Amahoro are great Islands that tourists can access via a boat ride for leisurely walks or hikes. 

Napoleon is known for its colony of fruit bats while Amahoro is referred to as the “one bar island” since only a single bar is located there.

The fresh water body is one of the Great Rift Valley lakes and is the eighteenth deepest lake in the world.

Beneath it are huge amounts of methane gas that Rwanda is now extracting for generation of electric power.

Tourists can take a boat ride to the power station and enjoy a guided tour of the geological operations.

Cool green

Kibuye town has many hotels overlooking the water body. But the view from the Saint Jean Guesthouse is probably the best. The building appears to be perched on a rock in the middle of the lake. It thus offers a “3D” view of the magnificent water body which is visible from all rooms and locations in the lodge.

Unlike the usual blue colour of most water bodies, Kivu’s colour is a cool green since the lake absorbs the green colour of vegetation surrounding it. The view is soothing to the psyche while the cool breeze gentles the soul.
Fishing expeditions and cruise ship adventures add to the many joys that the lake offers.

Aside from the lake, the clean environment in Rwanda is definitely something to behold. The landscaping on the street is amazing and there are no plastic bags littering towns as is the case in most East African countries. It is not hard to say why people refer to Kigali as the “Europe’ or “Geneva” of Africa.

Before departing the city, one can grab a meal or drinks at the infamous Mille Collines hotel where the popular Hotel Rwanda film was shot. The pool there is also worth discovering.

sarahooko@gmail.com