By GILBERT MWIJUKE Special Correspondent
In Summary
- What really makes Nyamirambo rock? The answer is on the wind! Sex, beer, and music!
Since the Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF) captured
power in 1994, Kigali has metamorphosed into a calm, clean and modern
city. New, picturesque buildings have come up in the city centre while
some of the city’s suburbs have been transformed into plush
neighbourhoods.
Take Nyarutarama, for example. Home to the
country’s only golf course, a private tennis club, and a string of
swanky hotels, this suburb is the real definition of new money. For most
Rwandans, living in Nyarutarama is living the “Rwandan Dream.”
However, on the other side of the city lies
Nyamirambo, a totally different world. Skirting the south-western
intersection of Kigali City, Nyamirambo attracts a younger, wayward and
generally lower-income bunch.
It is the hub of all shady personalities, the
source of all tribes of illegalities, and the recourse of the ladies of
the night – thanks to its low rent and bustling streets among other
factors.
A steelier version of Kigali, residents of this
suburb find release in binge drinking and late night mischief. Unlike
the rest of Kigali which sleeps as early as 8pm, Nyamirambo is usually
awake till late in – if not all through — the night.
The roadside pubs start to spread their umbrellas
and plastic chairs as early as 5:30pm. Le Makoumba Club and Africana
tend to sit an intellectual crowd of the younger corporates, discussing
events of the day interspersed with odd jokes and camaraderie.
Once owned by a French woman, Le Makoumba attracts
lots of French and Belgian patrons, the reason you will find here a few
dreadlocked night warriors hankering for a white lady’s attention.
It is here that you will find a mzungu, drink in hand, listening to all the tribes of music in the company of ragged strangers.
On weekends, Le Makoumba Club, BCR and Hunters
seem to melt the pot of revellers. All the notable pubs have a crowd but
it is BCR nightclub that seems to take the lion’s share of fun. So,
because it is usually packed to the brim, don’t be surprised when your
phone is stolen!
At Kwa Onatracom in Biryogo are a more upbeat set
of joints — most of them without names — which have a clientele of
students and former students. In these pubs the music is louder, the
dressing weirder, the flirting more conspicuous and the closing time
much later!
Farther ahead is Mirongo Ine (40 Miles), the place
for the night women — young painted faces looking for a quick buck from
Bazungu, or any other man seeking their services.
But do not be deceived by the action on the
streets because there is fun for all — even those who wish to quietly
and romantically have fun. At Papa and Mama Guinness, you will find lush
gardens where you could spend a quiet evening reading, listening to
music or chatting away with buddies.
Nyamirambo is also Rwanda’s Mecca of music. This
is where most of Rwanda’s popular musicians were born and have learned
the trade — Knowless Butera, Alpha Rwirangira, Ridderman, King James, et
al — and most local musicians meet, practice, and record their songs
from here, as the neighbourhood is the home to most of the country’s
recording studios.
Ah, Nyamirambo is also Kigali’s signature Muslim
locale, and is home to over 10 mosques, including the immaculate mosque
near the football stadium which was built by the late Colonel Muammar
Gaddafi.
But what really makes Nyamirambo rock? The answer is on the wind! Sex, beer, and music!
No comments :
Post a Comment