As I recently stood inside a Naivas Supermarket
branch waiting for my wife to pay for items that she had picked, I
noticed a steady stream of young people coming in to buy take-away food
from the deli.
As one young woman passed by, I jokingly quipped,
‘‘dinner?’’ ‘‘Yes,’’ she replied, adding that here was no need to cook
if she could pick ready-to-eat meals.
This new trend will have far reaching implications
for our agricultural and industrial sectors. Traditionally, it is rare
in African cultures to buy food portions for just one person even when
no other person is expected.
In fact, in some communities, more food is cooked
than needed just in case a guest abruptly appears when you are just
about to start eating. This is regarded as a blessing. It is said that
the guest thinks well of you.
Many a times, the food that remains goes to waste
and research has shown that at least 10 per cent of our food goes to
waste due to lack of refrigeration. This wasteful and random generosity
is now under threat from this emerging lifestyle.
When I went to Mathare for one of my research
activities, I noted another similar phenomenon where women make chapatis
by the roadside and sell them in the evening to day labourers living in
the sprawling slums.
John Ingasi, a mason, told me that they too find it
inconvenient to start cooking after a day’s long labour, leave alone
the cost of energy.
One chapati (larger than the normal diameter of six to eight inch) is sufficient for dinner and the following day’s breakfast.
The expansion of local start up Java House and the
entry of international fast foods giants like Kentucky Fried Chicken,
Subway, Dominos, Cold Stone Creamery, Galitos and Pizza Hut, signal the
changing lifestyle in Kenya.
But the fact that we never quite meet the standards
of their inputs, our only economic input is labour as they import most
of their supplies.
In economics, consumption is good but it is even
better when the goods are local. This situation must change if our
agricultural output is to be impacted by the growing appetite for the
consumption of fast food.
We cannot be net importers of agriculture products when more than 70 per cent of people are into agriculture.
There is wisdom in seeking to negotiate with these
new market entrants to teach our farmers about production methods that
would yield the standards they want.
We must also negotiate with these fast food chains
so that they can establish factories for value addition that turn
agriculture produce to the kinds of near-finished produce that they use
in the restaurants.
We must also take the science of food seriously because those who understand it exploit the premium that comes with it.
We are at a crossroads. In fact, our cultural
artifacts, meaning, and relations that are in our foods could be lost
completely as we embrace the new convenient lifestyles.
Most African dishes are not amenable to the strict standards and methods used in executing fast food operations.
Our failure to inculcate a culture of using recipes
means that we cannot guarantee any form of standard that can rival
multinational restaurants.
In an earlier blog post, I made the case for
mechanising local food production such as ugali in order to develop
standard recipes.
Without standardisation, scalability of any
enterprise becomes impossible. These are some of the secrets of success
of these multinationals expanding into different countries.
We must have the ambition to market ugali and irio products to Russians one day through an expanding local start up.
That means leveraging on the changing lifestyle to come up with new products that can be branded and marketed globally.
No one thought that Java House could become
international when it started. Although it changed hands to
international investors, it serves as an inspiration to start a Tea
House, then Muringa Cuisines, and hopefully Nyama Choma and Ugali Haven
restaurants.
There must be a deliberate effort to develop
simplified products out of our traditional foods and include them as
part of the alternatives to the convenient international culinary.
Louise Fresco, a Dutch Scientist in a powerful Ted
Talk on food said, ‘Food, in the end, in our own tradition, is something
holy.
It’s not about nutrients and calories. It’s about
sharing. It’s about honesty. It’s about identity.’ Let’s protect our
identity by becoming more creative about our foods.
The writer is an associate professor at University of Nairobi’s Business School.
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