How jeweller attracts affluent buyers

Jeweller Iver Rosenkrantz founder of Rosenkrantz in Tanzania. file photo | nmg 

By SYLVANIA AMBANI

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Summary

• Iver Rosenkrantz, the founder of Rosenkrantz Jewelry, has organised the ‘precious stones party’ to market his latest collection to Kenyans.
• The Runda house has taken a different approach to wall art.
• Large sculptures and accessories hang on the walls giving one the illusion of walking into an antique shop.
• Mr Rosenkrantz who wants to position himself as the Cartier of Africa prides himself as being one of the local luxury jewellers whose pieces are being won by Beyoncé Knowles, an American singer with an estimated net worth of Sh30 billion.

In a house in upmarket Runda estate in Nairobi, a few invited guests arrive for a unique preview of rustic, uncut yet luxurious jewellery made from gemstones sourced from rivers and mountains in Tanzania.

Iver Rosenkrantz, the founder of Rosenkrantz Jewelry, has organised the ‘precious stones party’ to market his latest collection to Kenyans.

The Runda house has taken a different approach to wall art. Large sculptures and accessories hang on the walls giving one the illusion of walking into an antique shop.

A few Kenyans are turning sections of their houses into showrooms. Most of the luxury products showcased in such setups are rarely seen in Nairobi shops and the shows are never advertised. Through phone calls, buyers who matter and who will obviously make a purchase are invited.

Michael Mwai, the chief executive of Luxury Network Kenya, says sellers are opting for private viewings to showcase their products because Kenyan high net worth individuals are typically more conservative than those from West Africa, for instance.

They rarely make loud purchases or seen spending Sh800,000 million Longines 18-carat watch.

He adds that there is, however, a younger, more discerning and adventurous group emerging.

‘‘They will spend on timepieces and luxury jewellery and are in their mid 30s and 40s. These Kenyans are exposed and well-travelled and they are looking for the perfect customer experience. This means a more personalised interaction through private showcases and individualised presentations. They will almost never show up at the shop or outlet,’’ says Mr Mwai whose company organises private viewings for luxury sellers.

Africa’s Cartier

Mr Rosenkrantz who wants to position himself as the Cartier of Africa prides himself as being one of the local luxury jewellers whose pieces are being won by Beyoncé Knowles, an American singer with an estimated net worth of Sh30 billion.

Patrick Mavros, a jeweller with a shop in Village Market, Nairobi, has been among the few Africans who have managed to break into the international market, selling from cufflinks won by presidents to silver animal gifts fit for princes.

Iver Rosenkrantz, the founder of Rosenkrantz Jewelry, has organised the ‘precious stones party’ to market his latest collection to Kenyans. PHOTO | COURTESY

Mr Rosenkrantz now wants to enter into this market with rare designs that are rough and rustic with the precious rock barely untouched but hanging beautifully on necklaces, rings or earrings.

Demand for high-end jewellery is growing and a number of international dealers such as Amethyst and Elias Jewellery have set up shop in Kenya to cater for the wealthy who want to buy genuine pieces locally.

For the lovers of natural, timeless pearls, shops such as Erita Jewellers and Sterns are also stocking luxurious freshwater pearls set in pure sterling silver alongside other jewels.

Unlike luxury jewellery from Cartier and those sold in the Kenyan market which have fine cuts and sparkle after polishing, Mr Rosenkrantz’s designs do not conform to universally accepted standards.

His gemstones retain their natural look from the moment of extraction without being cut or altered in any way.

“I like my jewellery to retain its rich history, and I believe Mother Nature is the best designer, so most of the sapphires, for instance retain their dusty look or rock residue on the surface,” he said.

After finding a gemstone, be it in a mountain or river, he decides what he will make depending on its size. He can choose to make a necklace, a bracelet or a ring.

For instance, if he finds a sapphire rock, he encloses it in a web-like cage surrounded by 15 carat diamonds to make a ring. The pieces can be customised, allowing a buyer to interchange the gemstones.

His new collection called ‘Serea’ is mainly created from sapphire stones that he found in his mine in Tanzania. The pieces range from Sh20,600 to Sh515,000.

“From emeralds mined in the mountains of Sumbwanga to Tanzanite extracted from the foothills of Mt Kilimanjaro, Africa has varied terrains hiding a vibrant array of treasures,” he said.

Mr Rosenkrantz first came to Tanzania as a law student and spent six months working in a court in Dar es Salaam. He later started a textile factory with a friend, producing ethically made shirts.

Tanzanian sapphire

“Venturing into the textile industry was a very interesting journey, but unfortunately due to a financial crisis that literally killed the whole textile industry we stopped and that is when we went into gemstones jewellery,” he said.

For Mr Rosenkrantz, small-scale gemstones mining is about ‘‘adventure.’’ You walk up mountains or wade through rivers looking for small stones that may not be so valuable on their own.

The critical factor in determining a favoured new gemstone is not colour or the type, as many people might think. Rather, it is quantity. Is the gem available in volumes enough to support a commercial trade? Also, new sources still carry a stigma of being less desirable than gems from known markets.

For instance, sapphires from Tanzania may not necessarily attract many dealers compared to those from established sources such as Myanmar and Sri Lanka.

“Africa is very rich in minerals but most of the stones are not really that valuable,” said Mr Rosenkrantz.

‘‘For example, the ruby deposits near the area we are mining have no gem quality. So they are low quality and low priced. So you have to create something. Like for us what we are doing is art, it is not an investment stone. It is a piece of art that tells a story,” he adds.

He wants to tell the story of Africam gemstones so that when his jewellery finds a coveted spot in Paris high-end stores, a buyer will get to know the history behind the stones.

‘‘All that most jewellery buyers get is a certificate that certifies that the stone is from a particular country. There is a lot that should be said in regards to how the stone was found and the whole process,’’ he said.

Together with Maasai men, Mr Rosenkrantz usually walks four to five hours from where the road ends so as to access the mines. He does not use machines.

“We mine the old fashioned way using shovels,” he said.

Some of the gemstones they have found include amethyst, aquamarine, emerald, quartz, ruby and pink sapphire, spinel, Tanzanite, tourmaline and white topaz.

Searching for gemstones is not for the faint-hearted. Mr Rosenkrantz said they experience many challenges but it is a fun experience.

“I want to be a pioneer in this field and inspire other people to venture into it and also to show the world that cool things can come from Africa with local craftsmanship and local materials,” he said.

sambani@ke.nationmedia.com